Is the dough in the right place?

Thursday 13 December 2007

Rising Stars

An article by JIM GILCHRIST of The Scotsman newspaper.

ALL hands to the table. There is the heavy thump of dough on flour-dusted stainless steel as the morning's batch of loaves and rolls takes shape; there is banter, snatches of a Christmas carol, and much whistling from Thomas. The baking of bread may be a linchpin of human existence, but for the workers in Garvald Bakery - tucked away behind a Volkswagen dealership on Edinburgh's Gorgie Road - making bread is more than just an age-old craft: it is their therapy and their key to broader integration into society.

For the breadmakers of Garvald Bakery are surmounting a wide spectrum of learning disabilities, from Down's syndrome to autisim spectrum conditions. Round the bakery table, they mix, knead and pummel their way into teamwork and job satisfaction, producing a range of organic breads for bakeries, delis and grocers in and around Edinburgh. And now this extraordinary little bakery is enjoying international recognition: a short documentary film about it, having won an award at this year's Edinburgh film festival and a Scottish BAFTA nomination, is bound for Hollywood legend Robert Redford's prestigious Sundance Film Festival in Utah next month.

Not only has the acclaim attracted by Yasmin Fedda's ten-minute documentary Breadmakers placed a welcome spotlight on the bakery and the Rudolf Steiner-inspired charity, Garvald Edinburgh, which runs it, but it also resulted in several of its bakers enjoying red-carpet treatment at the BAFTA Scotland awards in Glasgow last month. Among those hobnobbing with Lorraine Kelly and other glitterati at the awards ceremony were Sian Mayne and Nathan Reid, both of whom were kilted for the occasion. "I enjoyed the BAFTAS a lot," says Nathan, an affable 25-year-old. "I spoke to Lorraine Kelly - she's on TV - and I was dancing."

A trip to the Sundance Festival seems an unlikely prospect, given the costs and logistics, but Nathan is quite taken with the idea: "I've never been to America, but I'd like to try for the Sundance."

The baking, he says, is a satisfying business, "and I'm a great worker. I've done baking at my home and at school as well. And I've done special needs. I am special needs because..." he grins, "I'm very special."

"Special" they may be, but the establishment's Steiner ethos capitalises on abilities rather than dwelling on disabilities, explains Victor Chlebowski, the director of Garvald Edinburgh. "One of the beauties of this form of working is that it doesn't really matter what the dependency level or ability level of a person is, they all contribute to producing what will eventually be a loaf of bread, whether [they're] sweeping flour off the floor, kneading the dough or mixing it. People find their own level."

The attention generated by the Breadmakers has been a real bonus, says Chlebowski: "Yasmin, the director, was a one-to-one worker here for a while and because her background was in film-making, she saw potential in what was here. We were basically interested in a promotional DVD to go to parents and potential new members, but also to show the work we do in our own, Garvald way.

"But now there has been the added bonus of all the publicity, of people from here going off to the BAFTAs and now being recognised. It's just fantastic. It can't be anything other than helpful."
The Garvald presence at the BAFTA awards took the whole concept of inclusiveness that bit further, he adds. "It was all about integrating. They came away with autographs and with memories - they're still talking about it."

Breadmakers also went down well at a film festival in Teheran. Part of its apparent ability to travel well is doubtless down to its lack of any spoken narrative and its simple, direct but engagingly evocative recording of this most universal of occupations, accompanied only by snatches of conversation and singing, by the satisfying wallop of the dough off the table - and concluding with a virtuoso whistling solo from Thomas Griffiths.

Garvald Edinburgh, the charity which prompted the film, started in 1969 with a community house (named after a Steiner-inspired school established in Garvald House, West Linton, in 1944), and now operates from nine sites, providing "curative education" and social therapy. It is one of six Garvald operations in the Lothians and Borders, each with its own management and board structure. Some 115 people use the charity's services on a day basis, while a further 40 or so live in a care home or in supported tenancies. Productive activities include puppetry and puppet making as well as other craftwork, and refurbishing tools for Third World use. The Gorgie Road bakery opened in a former ice-cream factory in 1982.

As we talk, the morning production line is in progress, starting with Jamie Scott sorting out the day's orders - he flicks through the list for my benefit - it includes Butterflies Café, Real Foods, Tattie Shaws. One of the members will also accompany the van driver, explains Chlebowski:

"That's another aspect of integration, getting to know the routes, handling the money, social aspects of meeting the shopkeepers, so there's more learning going on." (And the van runs on an LPG and unleaded petrol mix, furthering the environmentally friendly Garvald ethos.) The members can also enrol for training modules in various skills - baking or otherwise - tailored to their abilities, in an accreditation programme run in partnership with Borders College.

Back at the table, Chuck Hong-Fung doesn't talk much - he has hearing problems - but keeps a quiet handle on the proceedings as he chops up a large wad of dough mix for the others to knead and roll into shape. Among the group is Donna Padget. When I ask her whether she likes working in the bakery she tells me she hates it - while beaming enormously - and that she'd rather have a rich boyfriend and a limo... to which there is no reply, really.

They don't play any music while they work - that would pose an unwelcome distraction - but there is continual chatter, snatches of song, whistling and the odd burst of what one might call baking aerobics from Thomas. While his baking skills may be limited, what he adds to the proceedings - and indeed to the film - in terms of spontaneous musicality are invaluable.

Also at the table is one of the centre's part-time one-to-one workers, Andrew Mill, a young graduate who helps Thomas. He loves working here, he says. In the meantime his other half has gyrated away from the table: "Thomas," hollers Andrew, thumping a wad of dough, "let's make bread." After the morning shift, he's taking Thomas swimming - cue a chorus of the Jaws theme tune.

Amid all the joshing, however, there is serious purpose here. As Chlebowki points out, these members are engaging in meaningful activity, with a clear end product which is in demand. The neatly rolled bread and rolls are now accumulating on racks, waiting to go into the prover, where they will rise, and then into the oven. Michael Valente is brushing baking tins with organic palm shortening (an alternative to margarine) while Nathan is placing rice-paper labels on each tin.

One of three workshop leaders, baker Stephanie Taylor, explains that in the morning session, they generally produce large and small wholemeal loaves, white country loaves and white and brown rolls. The afternoon shift makes a variety of "specials", such as Russian, Tibetan, oatmeal, walnut and malted grain breads.

How does such a disparate group work together? "They're coming here to do a job," she says, "most people take a lot of pride in their work. I think, myself, that we have as much to learn from them as they do from us."

It is, she agrees, a very elementary human occupation. "There's a lot to be gained from all coming round the table and kneading bread."

THE director of Breadmakers, Yasmin Fedda, confesses to being taken aback by the enthusiastic reception for her ten-minute film. "I did it because I wanted to make a film about that subject and that place," says Fedda, who spent a year as a relief worker at the Garvald Edinburgh bakery, "but I've been really surprised at the response."

Fedda, who is Lebanese-Canadian, came to Edinburgh University in 1998 to study social anthropology and went on to do a masters in visual anthropology at Manchester, Now, 27, she lives in Leith. She worked with young asylum seekers in Newcastle and in 2004 spent two months in a Syrian monastery which encourages Muslim-Christian relations, where she made a documentary, Milking the Desert.

The Breadmakers project arose with the offer of funding from the Bridging the Gap initiative, run by Scottish Documentary Institute to encourage new talent and funded by Scottish Screen, the National Lottery and the Skillset Film Skills Fund, among others.

After winning a Short Scottish Documentary Award at Edinburgh International Film Festival in August, Breadmakers was selected for the first International Documentary Film Festival in Iran where, again, it was well received, possibly due to the universality of its subject matter, and of course its lack of spoken narrative dispensed with any language barriers. "The only narrative," Fedda says, "is the bread."

Now the film has been chosen for the Sundance Film Festival in Utah: "That was another surprise, but it's really great. It will be good to share the work of the bakery and its approach to social care, and I hope to meet some interesting people and get ideas and feedback."

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